Busted a SP 5

[fartingbadass]

I hate to post this, but I figure I must. I busted my SP 5 last weekend. The handle came loose, now the blade shakes. I am fairly disappointed, as this knife is about 7-8 months old. I was chopping branches off of a dead log to make a fire too. Pathetic. It should have held up. My E. coli evaluation: KA Bar heavy bowie is better.

[soapboxpreacher]

I have beat the SP5 to death! But only for 3-4 months. I chopped a ton of hardwork!!! And pretty much no soft. I had batoned a piece of oak that was too big 7-8" thick but I went after it anyway. The blade hit a knot...I kept going. It got stuck. Kept going. I looked down and the blade was bent at about 7 degree angle...oh S**t. quickly backed it out...fine. Not even bent. This happened 2 more times. Fine everytime. I have the Kabar too. And I like the SP5 smaller handle better but I think that might be were it stops. Both are awesome for the money!!! I like them both a lot as well. But overall I like the Kabar better. It came from the factory razor sharp!!! And the fit and finish seemed to be better on the Kabar. Both Sheaths SUCK!

Sorry to hear about the SP5.

[kurodrago]

I hate to post this, but I figure I must. I busted my SP 5 last weekend. The handle came loose, now the blade shakes. I am fairly disappointed, as this knife is about 7-8 months old. I was chopping branches off of a dead log to make a fire too. Pathetic. It should have held up. My E. coli evaluation: KA Bar heavy bowie is better.

If you think that tomahawks are cool, why you didn't use one to chopping branches off of a dead log?

[Madnumforce]

Though it's sad, it's not very surprinsing. Molded ruber/plastic handle aren't as durable as full tang riveted or screwed scales. But maybe you can fix it? Does the handle still tight around the hollow rivet/lanyard hole? Cause then, you can fill the loose front part with thin wooden wedges, or even with some kind of relatively liquid resin. If the whole handle is loose, I think you can just take it apart, and try to do a handle by yourself. While the blade is still straight and nice, it would be a waste to throw it to the thrash.

[xxo]

You might be able to send it back to ontario and have them put a new handle on it.

[DanOh]

I hate to post this, but I figure I must. I busted my SP 5 last weekend. The handle came loose, now the blade shakes. I am fairly disappointed, as this knife is about 7-8 months old. I was chopping branches off of a dead log to make a fire too. Pathetic. It should have held up. My E. coli evaluation: KA Bar heavy bowie is better.

I had a SP 1 Marine knife that did the same thing- I used super glue something like
Madnumforce suggested. It sealed up the handle to the blade and it did not wiggle.
I don't know how bad yours is but you may think about it ??? You do have to be quick and carefull because the super glue has a very short work time. Now I don't know what that does to either the blade or the handle material but the knife was a hard use knife so it didn't matter as long as it held up. I had to pull the handle from the blade at the ricaso and squeeze the glue in--did not look as pretty as original but it worked

[Carney]

Ok, I have had mine for over ten years & several months ago I batoned it through a 4 foot dried log with a cinder block(Noss would be happy!) I got it stuck & began to beat on my handle & it came loose. I wedged it & glued it, cause this is my BOB chopper. I decided I would cut the handle off last week to see what I have to put a new handle on. I was surprised to see an approx 1/2" tang. I am having a chopper made, but I would still like to have my old knife re-handled, but can't see paying someone over twice the price of the knife for a handle!
And like Madnum said, not surprising!
From experience, rubber handles sre history for me. Micarta , preferably, that can easily be replaced!

[fartingbadass]

I have several hawks, and I use them frequently, but I also like taking big choppers out. I have heard people talk about how the SP 5 has problems with the handles, but I never much paid attention. I am really disappointed, as these are marketed as so-called survival knives, but the truth is they just do not hold up too well. I will send it back, as it is still warrantied, but I do not expect much. If they do not replace it, I will mount the blade in an ax handle with epoxy and rivets. I can fix Carney's too, if he likes, as long as he does not care about the looks.

[DanOh]

Ok, I have had mine for over ten years & several months ago I batoned it through a 4 foot dried log with a cinder block(Noss would be happy!) I got it stuck & began to beat on my handle & it came loose. I wedged it & glued it, cause this is my BOB chopper. I decided I would cut the handle off last week to see what I have to put a new handle on. I was surprised to see an approx 1/2" tang. I am having a chopper made, but I would still like to have my old knife re-handled, but can't see paying someone over twice the price of the knife for a handle!
And like Madnum said, not surprising!
From experience, rubber handles sre history for me. Micarta , preferably, that can easily be replaced!

Those types of knives have been a concern of mine for some time--even though they generally work out ok I also started getting knives full tang and micarta--
I did have a couple knives re-worked using micarta on the original 1/2" type through tang--such as a CS Recon Scout--a 7" fighter knife--------I also got a Falkkniven A1 blade blank and had micarta scales put on--and your favorite Offsetter---to me if the knife is worth it to yourself --you can do it--my problem was they came out so nice I didn't want to use them----I will post pics when I can

Getting back to the Sp 5 Problem--I think that knife was discontinued by Ontario and no new Generation II seems to match the size and style--and if they can-or-will replace the handle--Who pays shipping either way or both ways--and the time to package up and mail out the knife-----It may be a decision to buy a new one if you can find it--then start over with a new knife

[Madnumforce]

I decided I would cut the handle off last week to see what I have to put a new handle on. I was surprised to see an approx 1/2" tang.

Interesting... could you post pictures of this "naked tang"? It's always interesting to know the "internals" of a knife, even if this particular model is discontinued.

[xxo]

Rubber handles like specplus and cold steel use do come loose if you beat on them. The only thing I like about them is that they absorb some shock. I like G10 handles over a full tang the best but they cost more than a rubber handle.

[The Tourist]

There is a process akin to "double injection molding." That is, the firmer more durable structure is injected/cast first, and the softer ergo covering is done last. I bought a pair of Sears Craftsman clippers like this for an older woman at my gym. Some receivers for pistols have a metal skeleton under their resin frames.

I've even seen cast bullets done using two casting pots. A dollop of soft lead was poured first, followed by linotype.

Since +95% of knives spend their entire lives as simple tools in the human hand, this might be an option.

[Madnumforce]

Yes, there could be double injection molding (or whatever industrials want to call it), and in fact, it seems to me that some handles are made so. Mora Clipper is an exemple, though not the best one as the tang is finally relatively short inside the handle. But a one piece homogeneous handle is cheaper to produce, and I guess that's why this double molding is not standard for rubber ergo handles.

[DanOh]

Yes, there could be double injection molding (or whatever industrials want to call it), and in fact, it seems to me that some handles are made so. Mora Clipper is an exemple, though not the best one as the tang is finally relatively short inside the handle. But a one piece homogeneous handle is cheaper to produce, and I guess that's why this double molding is not standard for rubber ergo handles.

Madnum--if I can ever get my pics on here I had a CS Recon scout re-handled with a block of micarta---I have the cut off rubber handle that shows the tang impression--but on the re-worked knife handle I had the knife guy drill 2 additional holes in the tang and then used 2 stainless pins to fasten it --and used a stainless lanyard tube as a third attachment piece. With the adhesive this really anchored the tang in the handle and makes it very secure. I felt the CS Recon Scout blade was worth re-doing it to make a strong knife---only thing that could be questioned is although micarta is tough, it does scratch-scrape-and is not good for pounding unless you don't care about distorting your handle

[xxo]

The specplus handles are not co-molded, they are solid rubber and slide onto the tang and are held in place by the tube in the lanyard hole, the same construction as used on many CS fixed blade knives.

[The Tourist]

Other than comfort, my concern would be corrosion over time.

I used to collect a knives from a company that made lots of rubber handled folders. I loved that line and used them for many years without any issue at all. I did hear various complaints about simple rot as the knife aged.

I'm a not a mechanic, but I was one as a younger man. Things like battery spills, paint products, and mineral spirits were a daily event. And while I did not expose my EDCs to that, it is a concern to numerous guys who wrench for a living.

If the handle is secure and the issue of age has been licked, I believe rubber handles have a valid place. Lots of cops use things like Hogue grips.

[Carney]

I trust the hard kraton (i believe its kraton) on my Seal Pup Elite, I have beat that knife to death, & no handle problems. I believe this is the injection molded handles , similar to the CS Recon Tanto & some of there other fixed blades.
My benchmade Offsider had two slabs of rubber & though I loved this blade (GOD rest her soul), the rubber came off on her first challenging batoning session. I paracorded my handle & was going to send it off to get a Micarta handle made, but trajically she drowned in a lake after killing an 8 1/2 foot Gator.
I am sure like the Tourist said, that these rubberized handles would have there place in a law enforcement setting,but not for a Hard use wilderness knife.
Again this is how we learn what knife will suit us best thanks to Brother Noss!
Be Blessed!

[DanOh]

I trust the hard kraton (i believe its kraton) on my Seal Pup Elite, I have beat that knife to death, & no handle problems. I believe this is the injection molded handles , similar to the CS Recon Tanto & some of there other fixed blades.
My benchmade Offsider had two slabs of rubber & though I loved this blade (GOD rest her soul), the rubber came off on her first challenging batoning session. I paracorded my handle & was going to send it off to get a Micarta handle made, but trajically she drowned in a lake after killing an 8 1/2 foot Gator.
I am sure like the Tourist said, that these rubberized handles would have there place in a law enforcement setting,but not for a Hard use wilderness knife.
Again this is how we learn what knife will suit us best thanks to Brother Noss!
Be Blessed!

Carney--I'm going to try and post my pics of the re-handles Offsetter--if I can do this
-----It's not working---need to try again---sorry

[The Tourist]

The subject and personal use of handles--on any hand tool--is truly influenced my extreme personal choice.

Several years ago Buck produced a really nice knife called the 403B. If memory serves, it was called 'The Big Sky' or some form of 'Montana' worked into the title. The blurb said that it was designed by two professional outfitters. I ordered one with a silver laminated handle to match my 10/22.

The knife was polished, which I found odd for its use, but more unusual was the polished, varnished and slippery grips on the wood inserts. Now, I liked it, in fact I use 30 LPI in my combat pistols while many prefer 20 LPI.

Almost immediately the knife drew criticism from other hunters on how blood made the knife even slicker when field dressing downed game. I believe that model was dropped within 18 months.

Oddly, when a client found out I had one, he drove to my house and greedily bought the 403B for cash. It's his favorite outdoors knife.

What one man thought was useless, another man uses daily.

[DanOh]

The subject and personal use of handles--on any hand tool--is truly influenced my extreme personal choice.

Several years ago Buck produced a really nice knife called the 403B. If memory serves, it was called 'The Big Sky' or some form of 'Montana' worked into the title. The blurb said that it was designed by two professional outfitters. I ordered one with a silver laminated handle to match my 10/22.

The knife was polished, which I found odd for its use, but more unusual was the polished, varnished and slippery grips on the wood inserts. Now, I liked it, in fact I use 30 LPI in my combat pistols while many prefer 20 LPI.

Almost immediately the knife drew criticism from other hunters on how blood made the knife even slicker when field dressing downed game. I believe that model was dropped within 18 months.

Oddly, when a client found out I had one, he drove to my house and greedily bought the 403B for cash. It's his favorite outdoors knife.

What one man thought was useless, another man uses daily.

Tourist--I agree with your thoughts---I like different handle materials for what ever reason but I came to prefer micarta--G10 from what has been regarded as a durable handle material. I have experienced very slippery handles when my hand is moist or wet so to me the handle design and shape compensate to provide a sure grip. If I have prolonged use it does cause some strain--that is when rubber type handles are beneficial--not as durable, but these are trade-offs along with price.
I have had many knives made and got the best satisfying results by taking a makers design and asking if he would make some changes/modifications--instead of reinventing something it was made more for my desires and feel. Or I bought a production knife and had it re-worked to fit my liking. This is for the Handles and sometimes the hilts. It comes down to what the intended use is and how hard or soft you use it---preference---price---is it expendable.

[The Tourist]

DanOh, I find that this is not only about handles, but it also relates to the manufacterers, the length of the blade, the alloy, the edge configuration, etc.

In some forums you can get flames by making a simple preference like, "I enjoy Sydercos."

All of our hands are differing sizes, some of us work on farms, some of us are city kids. I don't hunt. Heck, some of us are on budgets which factor into our purchases.

The best thing here is the showcasing of an item and the discussion.

[DanOh]

DanOh, I find that this is not only about handles, but it also relates to the manufacterers, the length of the blade, the alloy, the edge configuration, etc.

In some forums you can get flames by making a simple preference like, "I enjoy Sydercos."

All of our hands are differing sizes, some of us work on farms, some of us are city kids. I don't hunt. Heck, some of us are on budgets which factor into our purchases.

The best thing here is the showcasing of an item and the discussion.

Tourist-One of my critical features is handle size---I have a small hand and that creates some problems with some knives. I guess that's where rubber type handles narrow things down and compensates enough for me to get a firm (whole) grip. This just means
the knife doesn't get used. I unfortunately don't have the opportunity to handle every knife I buy-most are purchased over the internet. I rely on what I have and compare to what I want to buy---one more for the drawer or resale shop--maybe

[The Tourist]

I do handle a lot of knives, and your problem surfaces more than you'd think.

For example, my house is filled with quality Japanese kitchen knifves. However, my wife likes her new Shun--because it's left-handed. I think these choices are very important. I might be the reseller, but I am not the client or the end-user.

[DanOh]

I do handle a lot of knives, and your problem surfaces more than you'd think.

For example, my house is filled with quality Japanese kitchen knifves. However, my wife likes her new Shun--because it's left-handed. I think these choices are very important. I might be the reseller, but I am not the client or the end-user.

I omitted one thing--even though I have a small hand some knife handles are too small for my liking as well. Come back to the same thing--for what use and preference

[The Tourist]

Come back to the same thing--for what use and preference

I agree. I hope your post proves thought provoking.

[fartingbadass]

The SP5 is not as good as the KaBar heavy bowie. My KaBar has taken tons of abuse, and it has not let me down. This weekend, I scored a new Rambo IV knife. I ground off the silly "choil" and sharpened the blade with a grinder and a good diamond stone. For $40 bucks, it is a real steal. The heat treat on this one--and heat treat tends to be uneven on these--is excellent. I'll post pics soon. The only down side is the silly paracord handle I had to put on it; I hate paracord handles. If you are looking for a decent heavy chopper, these are definitely a way to go.