Busted my INFI cherry today. FAT GW

[338 Stalker]

Well this little gem turned up today :rockon: . Busse FAT Game Warden.

Talk about sweet in-hand(skinning position), with control cuts a certainly. It's just what the doctor ordered :thumb:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/Tez308/BusseFATGW-2.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/Tez308/BusseFATGW-1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/Tez308/BusseFATGW-6.jpg
Yard Keeper LE & FAT Game Warden comparison. Talk about two porkers ;)
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/Tez308/BusseFATGW-4.jpg


The GW & SnG will go head to head. Here's a couple of pic's to checkout size & look.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/Tez308/BusseFATGW-5.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/Tez308/BusseFATGW-3.jpg

Next outing(soon I hope). These 3 will be tagging along :rolleyes:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/Tez308/BusseFATGW-7.jpg

[Shaolin]

Very nice blade, congrat's. The GW would make a very nice EDC.

[sharpshooter996]

Thats a nice lil Busse 338. Looks like it will be real comfy in the hands. Enjoy that little fellow.

[Thecarotidpulse]

I dont know how handy that thickness will be in skinning though... Isn't it much too thick to be sharp?

Could we maybe see some cutting tests? (or at least your impressions)

[338 Stalker]

From the factory, this was not the sharpest knife I've come across. It was popping-hair sharp on the flat, just not so much on the sweep/belly, or whatever it's called.
I ended up going over it with some diamond stones(which I try not to do on a new blade. I like to test/work the factory edge first. But this couldn't be the case with this knife). Working my way down, rough to fine. I must say, this INFI, like SR-77 Scrap Yard steel takes some effort to get it popping hair sharp. But once the desired angle is met, it looks to be great. Still, one can tell it's a very hard steel!

My Strider MFS with it's S30V comes up soooooo sharp, without too much effort. That S30V, as I've mentioned before, really holds an edge great. Sharpens great, & pops hairs big time. So this is still my preferred steel. But saying that, & at this stage, I haven't really tested any of my SR-77's or INFI on it's edge holding capabilities properly after resharpened them.
I did test my Scrap Yard Yard Keeper LE, with it's thick-ass blade. Mainly popping limbs/joints, chopping into bone, with some bone-out & skinning work. The Strider MFS did do the major boning-out & skinning.
As I mentioned in another thread. The Strider popped some joints & capped-out 2 deer. My LE mainly popped joints, with a little skinning. One of the reasons for this was, the LE did loose it's factory edge pretty quick. Making it very hard to cape-out. But this might be due to the fact, I did use it in some kitchen duties at home before I took it bush. Still, no edge torture test.

IMO & from what I can see. The Bussikin family of knives I have come across all have a sort of rougher edge to them. It's not bad. It's just not as smooth as some of the other blades I have eye-balled/bought. But I do think Busse, Scrap Yard probably do this for a reason. One it does the job, & two. The buying can customize the angle & smoothness to suit him & his needs. Either way, it's just something I have noticed.

I'm hoping since I have resharpened the LE, it's going to hold it's edge allot longer than it did with it's factory edge. So the next test will tell the story, on just how well SR-77 & INFI suits my needs(boning-out & skinning deer).

What I've found on many different steels, is, when one runs the edge along the bone on any animal, it's does sort the men out between the boys in edge retaining sharpness. Look, I know SR-77 & INFI are both great steels, that will probabaly never break under the most extremes. But in my line of work this has little place. Holding an edge & slicing is really what I'm after. But saying that I do also like a element of toughness. One of the reaons why I have my LE & FAT GW I guess.
But if I do ever need a pry-bar, I'm sure any of the Striders getting around will work great for the average hunter like myself, in any survival situation. Also I have my Scrapper 6, so that really takes care of that I guess.


I have decided I will leave(unless I sneak it into one of my spare YK kydex sheaths?) the GW out of the next trip, as I'm still awaiting it's sheath. So next trip & field test will be with the SnG, YKLE & S6. The YKLE has been resharpened, & it's popping hairs big time. The SnG will go out with it's factory edge. I like to test all my knives with there factory edge first. Except of the course the GW, which did need a going over. The Scrapper 6 has the factory edge ATM, & it's pretty good. It'll do the job on at least one outing.


One of the reason why I have decided to do these tests is. For one they're kinder fun. Two being. Finding some knives that work with me & my style. Three. Hopefully making it easier for other hunters like myself to choose a blade/steel/lines, that CANNOT get to eye-ball & play with them before they throw their hard-earned$$$ into one.
Sure, I do buy, sell & trade until I find what suits me. But I strongly believe in not keeping something, unless it gels/works for me(I'm no collector!), regardless of what brand it is & how much money$$$ I will drop in the process.
Some here might disagree, & I respect that. But that's just my way. I did the same with rifles, until I found the right cal/rig combo for my needs. I reckon I went through at least 20 rigs in five years. Which led me to the Blaser R93/338 Win Mag combo with a 7mm-08 Rem barrel for varmints, & a starting deer cal for my son.
And I must also say I'm partial to the CRF Winchester Model 70. With a 338WM/Pre-64 getting built for me ATM, but that's another story.
I know this means little on this forum, but I just wanted to let you men know how my mind works, with buying, testing & selling off what does not gel/work for me.

Back to knives.
I have sold one knife out of the plenty I have bought recently. That being my BM 710. That knife just didn't fit my hand or would it suit my style & needs. I could go into detail why the 710 went but that's pointless I think. Good knife just not for me.

The knives I have acquired recently.

Strider MFS & SnG.
Scrap Yard Yard Keeper LE, YKCG, Dumpster Mutt DC & Scrapper 6.
Busse Game Warden.
RAT RC-4.
Spyderco Dragonfly & mini Manix.
Benchmade 710.

These are keepers ATM.

MFS & SnG. My MFS just works great, as mentioned in other threads/posts.
I really did need a folder. The SnG with it's S30V blade, Ti frame-lock & G10 handles fit my needs. That stone-wash blade looks impervious to staining, which is sweet. Unlike some other brands, more about this later.
And that Strider thumb/index-finger jimping. IMO that is just superb, it works so well for a skinning/hunting knife! NOT ENOUGH KNIVES HAVE THIS FEATURE IMO.

Scrapper 6. Just because I need a Bowie/survival & it's as tough as hell. I also really like the bigger Resiprene C handles Scrap Yard use. Very comfortable in hand, in the position the S6 was designed for.

I ended up giving my 10 year old son my YKCG & DMDC. And my dad the RC-4 & mini Manix.
I RC-4 I can no longer test. Dad lives too far away. But that knife just didn't gel for me in-hand anyway, so all cool there.
My daughter will get my Dragonfly, as I no longer need this knife due to my SnG working for me better in this area. Plus she needs a knife like this on occasions(camping).

My sons knives I can still test, which suits me well. Although we're thinking about selling off the YKCG for a Busse GW. My FAT GW seems to gel with his hand better. Will see how we go on that one. His Dumpster Mutt will stay, as he also needs to own a Bowie/survival knife. And this DM does work for him.
Still we do not like the double cut feature on the blade. Plain & simple, it stains & stains bad. One meat dicing session has stained it big time, with very small signs a spot rust as well. Although small spot rust marks are nothing, & can be sort out real quick with fine steel wool & gun-oil(Sweets). Still, I would not buy another DC for our use. My satin blades are far better from what I can see. Just our thoughts here.

Whilst I'm talking about different coatings on blades. Whatever Strider use for their tiger-stripes is superb! Those are NOT coming off anytime soon. The reason I mention this is, some other brands have been known to come off even after the smallest tasks/sessions. But so with Striders TS.


The jury is still out on the YKLE & GW steels for me. But I will say the GW fills a gap I need, in the smallish fixed-blade area. And being sweet in hand, tipping it'll be one I will grow old with? Will see, maybe another family member might get lucky

Again, just my thoughts lads. Take it with a gain of salt. I call it how I see it.

338 :)

[338 Stalker]

I dont know how handy that thickness will be in skinning though... Isn't it much too thick to be sharp?

Could we maybe see some cutting tests? (or at least your impressions)

WILL DO :thumb: . Field test on both SR-77 & INFI steels.
I will be testing edge holding capabilities(boning-out & skinning), slicing & how they work in-hand with blood soaked hands. Although the in-hand part isn't too hard to work out at home. Both do the job from what I can see & feel.


I don't think the Game Wardens blade thickness will effect it's sharpness/slicing abilities too much on my choice of tasks. Also, grinds play a big part IMO. The GW's lines flow!

I have also heard how thicker blades hinder skinning performance. Well, that maybe true with certain knives & certain grinds. And maybe being a bit harder on much smaller game like fox or rabbit. But on a deer size critters, I can see no difference, given one is using a PH sharp blade.
I can see how thicker blades can hinder when the blade in dull & one needs to bone-out a leg, or maybe dicing some meat. Here the blade can turn.
Like I said. I truly believe BLADE SHARPNESS & GRINDS are the keys here. But that's just my opinion of course.

[Noss]

COOL :cool: That is a fat one. I bet that one would be hard to break :D Nice score. :rockon:

[Paul The Brit]

That little Busse is a tank! Why is your S6 in such good condition?? Shame on you! ;)

[eatingmuchface]

man. I would've picked a different knife for skinning.
but still very cool.

s30v easier to sharpen than INFI???
first I've ever heard of that.
it might be that your SY and busse's are so thick.

I would agree that s30v will hold an edge better though. :D

[338 Stalker]

man. I would've picked a different knife for skinning.
but still very cool.

s30v easier to sharpen than INFI???
first I've ever heard of that.
it might be that your SY and busse's are so thick.

I would agree that s30v will hold an edge better though. :D

OK, which knife champ? Show us some field pic's, that would help me & this thread out.

Do you have S30V? I know you have INFI, form Scrap Yard forum. Also, how do you use your knives?

So you're basically saying that INFI is easier to sharpen than S30 V, but S30V holds a edge longer. Interesting :rolleyes: . How did you come to that?

Look I'm not being a smart-ass. But just as you kindly mentioned in that one liner. "I would've picked a different knife for skinning". I listen with ore :)

[eatingmuchface]

what???
I'm sorry... I don't understand.

I was just saying because it's so thick, I would never THINK of it as a skinning knife, you know?
Not saying like "you made a dumb choice" or anything. Like you said it's about grind and edge geometry anyways. It's cool that you plan on using it to skin game actually, I bet people rarely use that knife for that. it's also cool that you use striders to skin game, they often get such a "tactical" wrap you know?

I also, just said that it's the first I've heard that s30v was easy to sharpen thats all.
i have a ranger in s30v and I can easily tell it's very hard to grind. (like 154cm.)
I actually don't have INFI, but I've only heard that is sharpens up fairly easily. (I would have guessed easier to sharpen than s30v)
This could be because of geometry though... if a knife has a lot of metal to move to sharpen, it an seem harder than one that has a thinner edge.


Also, I've heard that s30v holds it's edge extremely well, thats all, (and I can't tell it does indeed. much better than sr77) I guess compared to INFI I really DON'T know for sure it it will hold an edge longer, just because its pretty established that that is it's strong point.
reading my post now it is does sound pretty... offensive??? I guess you could say.

BTW I use my knives mostly for chopping wood and batoning and prying. :D

[338 Stalker]

No sweat at all EMF. I might of looked/read it wrong. But I did also want to pick your brain, as I'm a strong believer in listening to suggestions :D . No hard feelings mate. All part of the forum, & the tin-hat I guess ;)

I will give my honest opinion on all the knives I test. And if any here don't want me to post these mini GAME chopping, dicing, boning, & capping tests any more. Please let me know.

One of the reasons why I even do this. Is to give other hunters like myself a starting point in looking for another knife choice.
Look, my hunting style probably doesn't suit allot of men. As all my deer are butchered on the side of a hill(usually steep. NOT HUNG UP). They are too big to hang for one, or even two men(unless I do shoot a bambi :p ). Without giving one the hernia that is. So you can sort of see what I'm getting at.

I'm not sure if I already mentioned this. But, I just finished touching up & doing the final polish needed to get the 3 PHS last night.
The funny thing is now. My YKLE & GW are a bit sharper than my MFS. With the GW winning this contest. Man it's sooooo sharp. Taking big chunks of hair. The LE is very close. The MFS is also very sweet. You can hear the MFS pop-em, where the LE & GW just shave through in chunks. Obviously this is where the blade thickness/steels makes the difference? Hmmmm interesting indeed, will see.
I should also mention, I did focus on the 2 Bussikin knives. Still all 3 are as sharp as I need!

I look forward to really giving both steels(INFI & SR-77) of real workout. But from what I can see now, I cannot see these dulling too early? Still, nothing is ever a 100% certainly in this game. Cutting through hair, meeting bone etc, does sort blades out. Especially hair, as it's thick bristle, hollow & dusty/dirty.

This was one of the main reasons why I started my journey into blades. My old knives just would not hold an edge for the entire butcher(unless I shot a young one). Which is a right pain in the ass. There is no joy trying to sharpen your knife whilst balancing on the side of a hill in wet slippery conditions . No sir, these days those blades will not come out with me!


338

[kiah]

338, I like your posts. Keep 'em coming.

If your looking for edge holding, I've heard good things about Roselli's UHC knives. They're very high carbon and hardened to 64-66. Though they're not everyone's taste.

Not sure if the KoA shootoff of DiamondBlades has put out anything yet, but they are working on friction forged D2 hardened to 65-68. Wayne Goddard estimated their knives could skin out dozens of deer before needing sharpening.

[Thecarotidpulse]

Dame kiahs... 68 RC.... Dame...


Neways 338 we all like your posts! Keep em coming. Your pics are informative and your narrative style is great.

I dont think EMF ever meant otherwise, I think he was just saying that skinning knives traditionnally were thin affairs that could bend around bone etc ( a little like a filleting knife)

I know that in slaughter houses they carry an assortment of blades and always carry a honing steel for resharpening after 4-5 cuts.

I don't hunt, but if i had to skin a carcass... I'd just take a dissection kit with me and use a number of #22 scalpels =D

But that's just me.

[eatingmuchface]

yeah! I love your posts man. don't stop. It really gives a good idea of edge retention and toughness.
sr77 has fine edge retention.
I've chopped quite a bit with my DFLE without sharpening it.
INFI is said to have very good edge retention, from what I hear so I don't see any dulling too early.

also, now that I think about it, their are alot of thick knives made for skinning and butchering game.
(even though I always thought they had to be thin)

just look at the bark river Gameskeeper.
so i guess a little more thinking before I post would go along way. :D