Belt Sharpener

[culpeper]

I like my little 1x30 HARBOR FREIGHT (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2485) belt sharpener (sander). All I use is a 320X aluminum oxide sanding belt and a leather belt strop (rough side out) with green honing compound. Gets knives sharpened quickly like on this video but this guy uses a 220x grit standard machine belt in the first step. There is virtually no learning curve except think safety first as always.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLjFjT4vYsM

[Noss]

Good video. I plan to get one of those harbor freight belt sanders. I went to the store a few months ago to get one but they were out of them.

[culpeper]

It is small enough that I recommend it to anyone with an electrical outlet.

[Madnumforce]

Interesting... I never used small tools like that... my belt sanders have 2 and 4 meters long belts, and about 4cm ( or 1.5" ) wide. Never thought to use leather belts like that... but it won't be easy to find belts that long. For sharpening, I and and other friends, we're using a knifemaking tools we have here in France: a felt disq (from 2cm to 5cm wide, and from 15cm to more than 40cm in diameter) covered with fish glue and grits (generaly 220), used with a paste of finer grit, fat, and other substances to make it solid. It slightly convexes the edge and the fat of the paste avoid the steel to burn. To remove the burr, we use the buffing wheel with the usual buffing paste. It works really nice, and you can make really anything razor sharp (i can shave now with my Fiskars hatchet).

[culpeper]

You describing sharpening wheels?

[Madnumforce]

Basically, these are polishing wheels. I don't know if you use them in America, but i never saw it mentionned. Industrial production of knives dates back from the middle of the 17th century in France, and we are still using almost the same tools (except the huge grindstones). One day or another, i'll show you our traditional tools, and explain precisely how we use it and what's the result.

[culpeper]

That would be super cool!

[gak]

I like my little 1x30 belt sharpener (sander). All I use is a 320X aluminum oxide sanding belt and a leather belt strop (rough side out) with green honing compound. Gets knives sharpened quickly like on this video but this guy uses a 220x grit standard machine belt in the first step. There is virtually no learning curve except think safety first as always.

I like the 15 micron Silicon Carbide belts from Lee Valley too. They're a great intermediate step between the 320 and the leather/green compound if you want a nice polish.:thumb:

40 / 80 / 120 grits from Home Depot/Lee Valley were great when I needed to quickly convex a Carbon V khukri. I just keep a bucket of water beside me to dunk the blade in each pass so it doesn't heat up.

[Richard J]

when it comes to sharpening with belts i only use a few grits and the finest is 400. this for sharpening convex edge blades. for a v edge i use the paper abrasive wheel. i finish off all my knives on the paper buffing wheel. it doesnt make any sense to me to go spend $5. on several belts any finer than 400 grit when you can get a sick sharp edge just by finishing off with the wheel. a set is only $40. for an 8" wheel. belts wear out or break and you throw them away. i have a set of wheels that are going in 18 years old and still going.

[wildjim]

I like my little 1x30 HARBOR FREIGHT (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2485) belt sharpener (sander). All I use is a 320X aluminum oxide sanding belt and a leather belt strop (rough side out) with green honing compound. Gets knives sharpened quickly like on this video but this guy uses a 220x grit standard machine belt in the first step. There is virtually no learning curve except think safety first as always.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLjFjT4vYsM

I got the HF 1x30 last evening ; )

I tried it on a blank and it beats hand grinding with a stone by a great margin; although dangerous in my hands ; )

I need some finer belts. . .

[me2]

I've had the HF sander for years and sharpened and even made knives using it. My favorite belts for sharpening are the Klingspore 320x. I must say I wasnt that impressed with the Lee Valley belts. They seem to wear out very quickly. If you use a leather belt with a buffing or honing compound on it, then progressively finer belts arent really necessary. I sharpened a friends Atlanta Cutlery kukri and a Spec Plus bowie going from a worn 120 or 180 (cant remember which) grit belt to the leather. The 320's give a nice shine and a very sharp edge in just 2 steps, belt then leather. Heavy rebeveling usually requires a 120 or 180. Also, when I got the HF sander, it came with an 80 grit belt. For some reason, this belt worked really well for rebeveling the edge then going to the Sharpmaker. I didnt have a leather belt at the time. I recommend finding a way to see the burr form as you are sharpening. This will reduce unnecessary wear of the knife. I turned mine over and built a wooden box to allow the belt to run horizontally away from me. With the light behind me I can see the burr as it forms and can target more stubborn areas without wearing away in areas that have a burr already. A lamp like Richard recommends specifically for seeing the burr is a good as well, I just lucked out and have a ceiling light in the right place.

[culpeper]

I agree on the Lee Valley belts and started using a Klingspore belt as well Also, got a better leather belt through Jantz.

[me2]

My leather belt came from the Klingspores Wood working shop in Raleigh when I lived there. I've been getting mixed results from it lately, and tracking is all over, but that could be the sander more than the belt. I'll sometimes soak it in water and let it dry to tighten up the fit. That seems to work pretty well, until it stretches out again.

[wildjim]

I ordered some belts from Tru-Grit, Klingspore I bevieve, I don't have a preverence yet. The HF 1X30 grinder works great for removing metal quickly so I use it for knife blanks rather than sharpening. I also used it on an old knife that lost its edge profile from years of use and sharpening by someone else and brought it back to usefelness.

Maybe with experience and acquired finese I would try to sharpen a knife with it but mostly likely not as I am getting good results by hand sharpening right now.

[lsutigers1010]

i love the hf 1x30s they are great little machines i plan on getting some better belts for them grits ranging from 120-600 they are great you will love it once you get used to useing it

[lsutigers1010]

by the way here is where i plan on getting my belts from

http://popsupply.bizhosting.com/klingspor_1x30_cs_310.html

[culpeper]

by the way here is where i plan on getting my belts from

http://popsupply.bizhosting.com/klingspor_1x30_cs_310.html

Like the guy recommended in the video?

[lsutigers1010]

Like the guy recommended in the video?

yea they are the same brand Klingspore

[me2]

Anyone use edge leading strokes on these small sanders? I built a jig today and tried edge leading (edge up) strokes. The jig worked great, but the burr was nearly impossible to removed once it formed. At first, there was not a burr detectable, and the knife was shaving sharp, but once the burr formed, it was very small and difficult to remove. The knife I used gets very sharp using edge trailing strokes on the belts then 1x30 leather. The leather would not take the burr off. This is the only knife I've tried this with, so it could just be a matter of practice.

[wildjim]

I'd like to see the jig?

I did two knives from blanks by hand and eyesight. First grinding the edge on the HF 1x30, then by hand held a ceramic rod and finally a hand held leather strop. All went well and the blades grinds are even and sharp.

I also sharpened and old axe in the same manner.

This really my first encounter with my own power tools and knife grinding.

I want to forge a knife but its not practical in the city : (

Maybe they'll think I am grilling and tenderizing the steak ; )

I need to get goggles today!

Thank You Culpeper for the Harbor Freight suggestion, I didn't know of them to date ; )

[G. Scott H.]

by the way here is where i plan on getting my belts from

http://popsupply.bizhosting.com/klingspor_1x30_cs_310.html

Pop's is great. I ordered my last batch of belts from them. No troubles! :thumb:

[me2]

The jig is nothing special. Its just a piece of 1x10 (see the M2 Puukko batoning test) about the same length as the knife with one edge cut at 15 degrees and the knife spring clamped to it. I slide the edge along the belt very lightly, and angle the guide away from the belt to get the tip. I can tell tips will take some practice. On my HF sander, working against the platen is a must, since the belt moves around and flaps the piece if I dont use the platen. If you have Wayne Goddard's The Wonder of Knifemaking, its the same guide he suggests for grinding chisel ground knives, which I hope to try with some A2 soon.

[me2]

Well, back to hand stones. Parts just started coming off my HF sander. Time to flatten the old water stone.

[deemneks73]

so i got a 84 fj 60 with p/s, ais and a/c im not sure if its factory or after market but i cant find a belt route diagram anywhere can some one help me out??
thanx guys